This one is written by Linus and posted by Lis:
We woke up in the dirty swimming pool courtyard to the sound of jungle birds singing strange songs. It had rained a bit during the night but as we had set our tents under the roofed area we were still fairly dry. We cooked some quick breakfast coffee on the stoves and packed our bikes, eager to get out of this place and get on with our dirt road mission. We said goodbye to the Dutch overlander couple, paid our host and left. There was a slight confusion about directions and we all had to regroup once again outside the camping. We then backtracked a bit through the town to fill up at the gas station. Then we found a little breakfast joint where we had a cheap and nice full Bolivian breakfast; rice, egg, platanos, bread and coffee. After breakfast we went to look for an ATM. Everyone was quite low on money and most ATMs around only accept VISA cards, and unfortunately Lise and me were the only ones equipped. Here, no foreign cards were accepted and after a few failures we decided to ride on and try in another town along the way.
We rode on route 25 towards the town of Inquisivi, where we hoped to be able to take a smaller road across the mountains towards highway 4 that goes through the high plains. Drew pretty soon got a flat back tire from a nail and Sam and Rich stayed to help him while me and Lise trudged on as we move a little slower.
The gravel road pretty soon got really scenic and we rode through even bigger canyons and roads that hugged the hills in such a dramatic fashion that the death road from yesterday seemed to pale in comparison. On the way down one of the mountains we ran in to the Dutch couple again and stopped for a short chat. They invited us for coffee in their overlander vehicle but we decided to move on so as not to loose too much time.
After an hour or so more of driving we stopped at an overlook where minutes later the gang caught up with us. We took some photos and relaxed a bit, and got caught up once again by the dutch couple. We took some photos together and took off again. Getting closer to the intersection the landscape was fantastic, with high mountains, deep ravines and big dramatic landslide marks on the mountainsides.
We reached the intersection, looked at the road and decided to chance it with the shortcut. We also thought we had understood that there was an ATM in a village not too far in on the shortcut road, and if it got too bad we could always go back. So off we went down another ravine and up another mountainside, and along the ridge for another hour or so before reaching the town of Quime. Unfortunately the info was once again wrong and no ATM was to be found.
Rich had found a camping spot beside a river on the iOverlander app and we went past Quime to try to find it and spend a night camping. After looking around a bit we found the site, but unfortunately the trees had been cut down and stapled on the potential tenting spots, and the only possible location to set up a tent was right by the road. It was a real pity because the surrounding scenery was beautiful with a lively stream and a big waterfall down the mountainside.
Now it started to get dark and we decided to take no chances camping so we backtracked to Quime to try to find a cheap place to stay. On the main road we found a little sign saying Accomodaciones so we banged the door until a boy opened. He said sure, we could get rooms for 30 bolivianos each, and there was parking right by the rooms. Said and done we rolled into the courtyard and settled in. The rooms were simple and could not be called very clean in any way. The boys got a triple room with a bathroom that had definitely not been cleaned after the last guests. We got a double room with a bed that probably only had two springs left holding the mattress up. Sometimes you just have to take what’s available…
We were starving so we cooked some dinner in the courtyard on our camping stoves and while we did, the boy’s mother who was obviously the boss, came and said that the guys room was 55 Bolivianos each because of the private bathroom. We quickly told her that 35bs was exactly what we’d pay for a room with a dirty bathroom and she buckled and agreed. After dinner we were all really spent, once again called it a day pretty early and withdrew to our concave bed.